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Chanter making step-by-step

 
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texasbagpiper
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Joined: 24 Oct 2006
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Location: Texas

PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:11 pm    Post subject: Chanter making step-by-step Reply with quote

First bore and turn to desired shape.


Second, mark a line down the center.


Mark where tone holes will be drilled and center punch.


Drill tone holes. I find using a V-block keeps everything still while I’m drilling.


Next step is to carve finger scallops and should be done with care. I use a 1” round microplane in the drillpress at medium speed. The picture shows it behind the microplane but I do it from the front. Try to use a vise to keep it still or it will move even with the steadiest hands and will not look pretty.


I then follow up with an 1” drum sander in the same fashion as the microplane. Bo gave me this idea. It sure makes the next step go by quickly. I used to just use the microplane and sand smooth by hand.. Thanks Bo…


Sanding smooth with 600 grit sand paper wrapped around a 1” brass tube.


Almost done just needs a finish. If you don’t put a finish on these light colored wood they will get dirty from the oils and dirt on your hands. The wood used is Ramin.


All done…..




Last edited by texasbagpiper on Wed Dec 20, 2006 7:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jerry revelle
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Joined: 24 Oct 2006
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Location: Elk Mound, Wisconsin USA (rural)

PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 2:40 am    Post subject: Step by step to instand success Reply with quote

Seth, this is really a great post you've done for us. Few words needed with the nice photos. How simple you make it look, too.

I spoke with a pattern shop today that has a macining center with multiple tools (could bore and scallop finger holes) on the part, after turning while still chucked in the lathe. Their question: how to bore the chanter hole? Before chucking (to insure centering the chanter) or after it's turned.

I suggested they explore turning the chanter, and drone parts in one piece then saw them to separate into three pieces. Drawback, wasting wood as the rough stock would have to be large enough to turn the largest piece.

I suggested stacking the other pieces, turn one piece which would yield three or more after sawing.

Do you have any thoughts?

Separate topic: if we took over a vo-tech shop for a day, how many students could make their wood parts with you or one of the other fellows running the workshop? Something to think about if we combined it into a building and playing, summer workshop.
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texasbagpiper
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Joined: 24 Oct 2006
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Location: Texas

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 12:03 am    Post subject: Re: Step by step to instand success Reply with quote

jerry revelle wrote:
Seth, this is really a great post you've done for us. Few words needed with the nice photos. How simple you make it look, too.

I spoke with a pattern shop today that has a macining center with multiple tools (could bore and scallop finger holes) on the part, after turning while still chucked in the lathe. Their question: how to bore the chanter hole? Before chucking (to insure centering the chanter) or after it's turned.

I suggested they explore turning the chanter, and drone parts in one piece then saw them to separate into three pieces. Drawback, wasting wood as the rough stock would have to be large enough to turn the largest piece.

I suggested stacking the other pieces, turn one piece which would yield three or more after sawing.

Do you have any thoughts?

Separate topic: if we took over a vo-tech shop for a day, how many students could make their wood parts with you or one of the other fellows running the workshop? Something to think about if we combined it into a building and playing, summer workshop.


Quite simple, always bore the blank first and use the bore as your center guide. So turn the piece by centering on each side of the bore.

As far as a summer workshop. A set of pipes could be put togather pretty fast or pretty slow depending on how far the parts have been made already... Cheers, Seth
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Quimbisero



Joined: 28 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While a workshop would be a lot of fun for those who could attend, perhaps a quicktime or (gasp) windows video would work, too. After all, after showing the set up for boring, you need only show a short portion of the boring process. Then the main interest would be in showing the markup and drilling of holes.

There's no need to show the turning process as there are plenty of videos and books on the basics of wood turning and the details of turning a sackpipa are not especially complex, as far as a turning project is concerned.

It would be fun to watch even for those of us well familiar with the process of making bagpipes.

Eoghan
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Tex
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Texas I have plans for a Sackpipa that have a 3 part drone. My plans do not have the measurements so they are not very helpful but, have you or antone else seen the drone made in 3 parts?
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jerry revelle
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Joined: 24 Oct 2006
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Location: Elk Mound, Wisconsin USA (rural)

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 4:00 am    Post subject: Workshops ? Reply with quote

In the past, I've done a good many workshops for technology teachers where I brought them all to a college where there were numerous pieces of equipment to permit getting the project, whatever it was, completed in a day. It worked extremely well and there were repeats from time to time.

If we were to propose something like this for fabricating pipes, I believe the turning would have to be already done, as few schools have enough lathes to accommodate more than one or two turners (they've almost all gone to machining centers). And based on the comments above, we would also have to have previously bored the chanters, at least and possibly the drones, too.

I believe a workshop like this, would be an opportunity for those of us who are inexperienced in piping to rub elbows with those of you who play, make and sell pipes and also to have a couple of our Swedish expert players around to encourage us.

This would be as much a social event as it is anything and would probably encompass a weekend, at least, so we could try out our pipes with some experts to guide us. These "experts" would be paid, based on the number of enrollees we had at the workshop.

Likewise, when we finally do get the expert players to come to America, fees for playing, reed making, etc.. would be charged the students, to offset their cost for the trip and the work. Very similar to what expert fiddlers and other musicians do at spellmanstemma. It's something to consider in the future.

Too bad we can't pay them back now, for what Olle and the likes of you others (you know who you are) have done to make this forum take off the way it has, right?
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Olle
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tex, my bass drone (F/G/A) is in four parts actually. But I see no reason to make a conventional drone (high D/E) in more than two parts.

Jerry, I do get payed! Not in monetary value, but in delight. I'm so glad to see you guys get going.
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texasbagpiper
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tex wrote:
Texas I have plans for a Sackpipa that have a 3 part drone. My plans do not have the measurements so they are not very helpful but, have you or antone else seen the drone made in 3 parts?


Hey Tex, are you talking about those plans in the amatuer bagpiper maker files. They show a 3 piece drone .

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Tex
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes! My plans have no measurements and that really puzzled me when I saw your plans for the drone with only 2 parts. Did you add the measurements to this drawing? Could you post the blow pipe and chanter with measurements also? Thanks!

I know this is on anther page but, how did you bore the double bore chanter? I have been having trouble with a single bore and keeping it straight. The drill seem to naturally want to twist while drilling such a small dia. hole over such a long distance. Do you find this also?

I have been working on making the bore with a heated rod....it has been going very slow and I am begining to get a conical shape each time I insert the re-heated rod in the same hole. It is fun and smokey if nothing else!
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Quimbisero



Joined: 28 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tex,

While I haven't tried burning a bore (although I burned a few while drilling when first learning) I suspect that you need to compensate for such problems by using a rod that is some significant degree smaller than the actual bore you want to end up with. Now, what that difference in measurement is, and how many attempts it will take to get the technique correct, I will not hazard a guess.

Merry wood burning and a happy new year!

Eoghan
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favrepipes



Joined: 26 Oct 2006
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Location: Vancouver

PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I know this is on anther page but, how did you bore the double bore chanter? I have been having trouble with a single bore and keeping it straight. The drill seem to naturally want to twist while drilling such a small dia. hole over such a long distance. Do you find this also?


Most pipemakers that I know of use D bits or gun drills hooked to a compressor instead of regular twist drill bits. These are preferred for various reasons such as speed, they consistently leave a smooth bore, less wandering, and less heat is generated. I personally still use twist drills because I have them at hand and there are always a million other tools that "would be nice to have", not to mention fine timber, and the pocket book is only so big.

I have very little run out now when I bore long and narrow bores with a twist bit. The trick is to let the drill bit feed itself slowly into the wood rather than force it in as this will rip the wood fibers rather than cut them. I first true the blank so that there is no wobble and then make a pilot hole with a pilot drill. I then go in very slowly with a short 1/4" twist bit and listen for the sound it is making as it cuts. You can hear when it is ripping rather than cutting. After every couple of turns of the tailstock's hand wheel, I pull out the bit to clean the swarf and allow it to cool. I never let the flutes fill up completely. When the short drill is at its end I then use the long bit. Sometimes I use mineral oil as a lubricant if there is excessive squeeling. My success rate is quite consistent now and there is only a minor amount of truing that needs to be done at the end.

Bo
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texasbagpiper
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Joined: 24 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tex wrote:
Yes! My plans have no measurements and that really puzzled me when I saw your plans for the drone with only 2 parts. Did you add the measurements to this drawing? Could you post the blow pipe and chanter with measurements also? Thanks!

I know this is on anther page but, how did you bore the double bore chanter? I have been having trouble with a single bore and keeping it straight. The drill seem to naturally want to twist while drilling such a small dia. hole over such a long distance. Do you find this also?

I have been working on making the bore with a heated rod....it has been going very slow and I am begining to get a conical shape each time I insert the re-heated rod in the same hole. It is fun and smokey if nothing else!



I'll post all when I get a chance. soon though... Get yourself some drill rod and make a simple D-bit. I bore my holes with gun drills and D bits but so far I have only used d-bits for the Sackpipa. I actually got a 12" twist bit and cut the twist part off and ground the end into a d bit... Check on Chris Baileys website. search yahoo for Chris and he has info on how to make D-bits. You can make a bore in 5 minutes with these. Under a minute with a gun drill... Cheers,Seth
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Tex
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! Can you post a link to Chris Baileys web site I can't seem to find it. Happy Holiday!
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favrepipes



Joined: 26 Oct 2006
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Location: Vancouver

PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tex, the spelling was wrong. It's Bayley with a Y. His site is http://www.bagpipeworld.co.uk

Bo
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Tex
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Fav. that helped. I did find this site while searching with a good example of how to make a D-bit.

http://www.geocities.com/Paris/5701/smallpipes/chanter.htm
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texasbagpiper
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tex wrote:
Thank you Fav. that helped. I did find this site while searching with a good example of how to make a D-bit.

http://www.geocities.com/Paris/5701/smallpipes/chanter.htm


That's Mike Nelson's site. He has a lot of good information there...
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